Toyota NGA Portals — Owner's Manual

Thank you for purchasing from 74Weld. Should you require support, contact us:

74Weld Support: 1-619-286-6656

This manual covers the following Toyota models:

• 2024+ Tacoma
• 2025+ 4Runner
• 2024+ Land Cruiser 250
• 2024+ Lexus GX550
• 2022+ Tundra
• 2022+ Sequoia
• 2025+ Lexus LX700h

For older models, visit our instructions page and see the "Toyota" instructions manual.

Important Safety Information

Read Prior to Installation

Post-install, cycle your suspension to ensure components move freely, without binding or collision. Binding and collision of suspension components can result in mechanical failures, serious injury and death.

• DO NOT over-torque suspension components.
• DO NOT strike 74Weld aluminum components. In the event that removal of a tapered connection is required, use a pickle fork or tie rod/ball joint separator.

Order of Operations

Read Prior to Installation

This manual details 74Weld portal installation, operation, and maintenance procedures. Every step is critical. The installation procedure is structured as follows:

1. Kit Bill of Materials — review before you begin to ensure all necessary components are present.
2. Required Tools and Consumables — review before you begin to ensure you have all required tools and consumables.
3. Brake Bleed Preparation Notes — please read our instructions before you begin, even if you have bled brakes many times. Our suggestions will save you headaches.
4. Brake Bracket Installation
5. Portal Installation
6. Brake Bleed
7. First Oil Fill and Break-In
8. Regular Maintenance — Oil Change Procedure
9. Additional Information (Troubleshooting, Replacement Parts, etc.)

Kit Bill of Materials

Toyota Kits

Depending on the year, trim, and options of your Toyota, you will have received one of the following portal axle kits:

The table below describes the assemblies and kits included in your vehicle-specific portal kit. Please review BOMs and ensure you have received all required components prior to portal installation.

Corner Assemblies

There are four different pairs of front portal assemblies:

All kits include the following rear portal assemblies: 74W-4G-1.22-TNGA-RD and 74W-4G-1.22-TNGA-RP.

Shaft Sets

Your portal kit includes two equal-length shafts. The length depends on your vehicle. The digits at the end of each shaft part number indicate the end-to-end length of the shaft. Check shaft lengths prior to installation.

Front Brake Kit

Depending on your vehicle, you will receive a -N400, -XK70, or -LX700 front brake kit.

Rear Brake Kit

All new gen Toyota portal kits use rear brake kit 74W-4G-1.22-N400-KIT-BRAKE-R.

Install Kit

Depending on your kit, you will receive a -N400, -XK70, -GX550, or -LX700 install kit.

Tools, Consumables & Torque Specs

Common to All Portals

TNGA Installation Fasteners

General Tools & Consumables

General tools required (not limited to):

• Hammer
• Cut-off wheel
• Pry bar
• Torque wrench capable of 150 ft-lbs
• Pliers
• Vehicle lift or jack and jack stands
• Brake line clamps or vise grips

Consumables:

• 40 oz 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil
• Loctite 263 (provided in kit)
• Loctite 242 (provided in kit)
• Assembly grease
• Oil to top off the rear axle — see vehicle manufacturer's specification
• Brake fluid to top off reservoir — see vehicle manufacturer's specification
• Teflon tape

Brake Bleed Preparation

This kit includes extended brake lines which means the brake system will need to be bled after installation. Newer vehicles have been observed to be more sensitive to changes to the brake system. Some vehicles even have a "brake maintenance mode" that can be activated at the dash. We have found the following procedure to be effective without using brake maintenance modes.

1. Lift and support the vehicle. Once in the intended workspace (lift or jack stands), disengage the parking brake and turn the vehicle off. Check that the parking brake is off by rotating a rear tire.

   Some vehicles with an electronic parking brake will automatically engage the brake when the vehicle is in park or turned off. In this situation: (1) Have one person in the driver's seat turn the vehicle on, depress and hold the brake pedal, disengage the parking brake, and put the vehicle in neutral. (2) Have a second person disconnect the wiring harnesses to both rear brake calipers. (3) Have the first person put the vehicle in park and turn the vehicle off.

2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and leave it disconnected for the remainder of the install.
3. Perform the installation per this manual, but leave the brake bleeding until the end. This way you can ensure brake lines are routed properly before bleeding, and you will not need to bleed twice due to a re-route.

   During install, some or all factory brake lines will be removed. Use brake hose clamps or vise grips to clamp upstream soft lines to keep brake fluid from continuously leaking.

4. Bleed brakes per the procedure in this manual.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal. If you previously disconnected your electronic parking brake caliper wiring harnesses, ensure they are plugged in before reconnecting the battery terminal.

Brake Bracket Installation

Each portal has a "lower" and "upper" brake bracket hole pattern. Each hole pattern consists of two dowel holes and three threaded holes.

Your kit includes front and rear brake brackets engraved with part numbers that specify which corner they belong to. Brackets include dowels spaced such that they can only be installed to the correct hole pattern.

• FD — Front Driver
• FP — Front Passenger
• RD — Rear Driver
• RP — Rear Passenger

1. Locate M12 brake bolts (BT-073) and M12 washers (WS-026) supplied with your kit. Place one washer on each brake bolt.
2. Apply red Loctite 263 to the threads on the tip of each brake bolt and into the threaded brake pattern holes on the portal box.
3. Install brake brackets onto corresponding portal boxes by piloting the dowels on the brackets into the dowel holes on the portal box.
4. Thread brake bolts into the portal box and torque to 65 ft-lbs.

Portal Installation

Front End Disassembly

1. Lift and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheels and tires from the vehicle.
3. Clamp the soft line between the chassis and upright with vise grips or a brake line clamp. Remove the hard line between the chassis and caliper.

4. Remove the ABS sensor and cable management brackets from the upright. Take care not to crush or kink the sensor cable. Remove the sensor cable retaining bracket from the upright. Save the sensor screw.

5. Remove brake calipers and rotors. Save caliper bolts. (4Runner: save calipers.)

6. Pry the hubcap from the bearing hub and remove the cotter pin from the spindle nut. Remove the spindle nut. Thread the spindle nut onto the stub shaft backwards and tap to unseat the stub axle shaft from the unit bearing. Save the spindle nut.

7. Loosen the tie rod, upper ball joint, and lower ball joint nuts. Keep nuts partially threaded on ball joint studs. Break tapers.
8. Remove the upper ball joint and tie rod nuts, then remove steering stop bolts to separate the upright from the suspension. Save tie rod nut. Save upper ball joint nut.
9. Remove the lower ball joint nut to separate the steering stop attachment from the lower control arm. Save lower ball joint nut.

Stub Shaft Modification

The front stub shafts will need to be trimmed to fit within the portal box.

1. Slide the shaft cutting tool from the install kit onto the stub shaft.
2. Secure the shaft cutting tool with the spindle nut.
3. Cut the end of the stub shaft flush with the nut. This allows the stub shaft to fit within the portal assembly.
4. Remove the nut and cutting tool from the stub shaft. It is important to cut the shaft with the nut installed, as removing the nut will clean the threads.

Stub Shaft V-Ring Seal

V-ring seals provide additional protection to the input seal from dirt and debris.

On 30 and 36-spline front ends, your installation kit includes two spacer rings and two V-ring seals:

• Slide the spacer onto the stub shaft shoulder, then stretch the V-ring seal over the stub shaft shoulder.
• On 36-spline shafts, the spacers must be secured to the shaft using RTV.
• Spacer rings are not required on 34-spline front ends — V-ring seals stretch directly onto the shaft.

The lip of the seal should be facing the threads on the stub shaft. Grease the sealing lip with assembly grease.

Front Portal Installation

1. Locate the front portal box, front O-rings, and washers.
2. Remove the front portal box window. Do not lose the O-ring.

3. IMPORTANT: Grease and slide the O-ring from the install kit onto the stub shaft. Depending on your kit, this will be OR-219, OR-220, or OR-222.
4. Maneuver the portal to slide the lower ball joint and stub shaft into the portal simultaneously.
5. Install the lower ball joint washer from the install kit to the lower ball joint stud. Reuse the lower ball joint castle nut and torque to 117 ft-lbs. Install a new cotter pin.
6. Reuse the upper ball joint castle nut and torque to 92 ft-lbs. Install a new cotter pin.

7. Apply Loctite 263 to the threads on the stub shaft and into the threads on the factory stub shaft nut. Torque the nut to 105 ft-lbs. On 34-spline front ends, deform the end of the nut into the groove on the axle shaft.
8. Use a pry bar as required to keep gears from rotating when torquing.
9. Grease the window O-ring and reinstall the window.
10. If brake brackets have not yet been installed, do so now. See the Brake Bracket Installation section.

11. Install the steering arm washer from the install kit to the outer tie rod stud. The tie rod will be rotated 180° and installed from the top of the steering arm. Reuse the tie rod nut and torque to 89 ft-lbs. Install a new cotter pin.

Wheel Speed Sensor Adapter

Your install kit includes two wheel speed sensor adapters for the front portals — one "-D" (driver) and one "-P" (passenger). Rear portals do not need sensor adapters.

1. Remove the blank plate from the front portal. Save the screws and O-ring.
2. Install the sensor adapter, reusing the screws and O-ring.

Front Brake Line & Cable Routing

1. Install the front brake caliper onto the brake bracket, reusing factory caliper bolts. Bolts can be snugged but do not need to be torqued yet — the caliper will need to be removed again for brake bleeding.
2. Install the supplied brake line retaining bracket to the upright. Install the supplied front brake line and run it from the factory soft line to the brake caliper.
3. Use the supplied banjo bolt and crush washers to attach the line to the caliper. Once the line is routed in a strain-free condition, torque the banjo bolt to 96–120 in-lbs.

4. The front wheel speed sensor cable is retained to the rear side of the upper control arm. To create slack, the cable must be re-routed down the front of the upper control arm. Remove the wheel speed sensor retaining bracket from the upper control arm and carefully pry the bracket off of the wheel speed sensor cable.
5. Route the wheel speed sensor and supplied vent line up the front of the upright as shown and retain using the supplied P-clamps. The vent line can be pushed onto the barbed banjo fitting on top of the portal box. Do not tighten the banjo bolt until you are satisfied with the routing.
6. The front breather lines can be routed into the engine bay to the supplied catch can. See Catch Can Overview for details.

Rear End Disassembly

1. Remove the rear brake line retaining clip. Save the clip.
2. Remove the hard line retaining screw to create slack in the line.
3. Cut a slit in the hard line retaining bracket so the hard line can be removed. DO NOT CUT THE HARD LINE.
4. Remove the hard line from the retaining bracket.

5. Remove brake caliper bolts.
6. Remove the rear brake caliper and set aside. The rear brake lines will be retained — do not disconnect the rear brake lines.

7. Remove the rear wheel speed sensor from the rear hub.
8. Remove the four nuts retaining the axle shaft to the axle housing.
9. Get a catch can ready and remove the rear axle shaft. The rotor can be inverted and nuts loosely installed, allowing the rotor to be used as a slide hammer. Oil will spill from the axle housing.
10. The rear end is now ready for portal installation.

Rear Wiring Extension

To account for the added drop of the portal, the cables running to the wheel speed sensor and electronic parking brake will need to be extended. Use the supplied wire, butt connectors, heat shrink, and wire loom to extend this wiring. For the most accurate length for your specific application and routing, measure the distance required once the portal is installed.

Rear Portal Installation

1. If brake brackets have not yet been installed, see the Brake Bracket Installation section.
2. Remove the window from the rear box. Make sure not to lose the O-ring.
3. Locate the axle shaft. Grease the shaft splines and seal surface. Insert the shaft into the portal box and retain with snap ring RR-002 from the install kit.
4. Reinstall the window O-ring and window.
5. Grease O-ring 153 from the install kit and install on the lip of the axle housing. Slide the shaft and portal box assembly into the housing and secure with nylocks (NT-009) supplied in the install kit. Torque to 70 ft-lbs.
6. Install wheel studs (BT-041) from the stud kit into the backer. Apply red Loctite 263 to the short-side thread. Torque to 35 ft-lbs.

7. Install the wheel speed sensor into the portal box. Use replacement wheel speed sensor O-rings. Retain with the supplied M6 screw.
8. Bend the hard line and install the rear brake caliper onto the box. Reuse factory bolts and torque to 90 ft-lbs.
9. Install the catch can onto the spare tire crossmember and route vent lines. See Catch Can Overview for details.

Catch Can Overview

The install kit includes two catch can kits. Each kit contains: filter, catch can, hose clamps (3×), small hose barb (2×), medium hose barb, Teflon tape, hardware, dipstick, and steel wool.

1. Remove the handle from the catch can using a 5/32" allen wrench. Use the supplied hardware to fasten the handle to the supplied mounting bracket (front or rear), then reattach the handle to the catch can.
2. Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the medium hose barb and attach it to the top of the catch can. Use a hose clamp to attach the filter to the medium hose barb.
3. Wrap the threads of the small hose barbs in Teflon tape and thread them into the forward-facing ports of the catch can. Make sure the dipstick is installed.
4. The bottom of the can is detachable — drop steel wool in.

Before / After Reference

Brake Bleed Procedure

Due to the location of the brake caliper on the portal and the sensitivity of the braking system on modern vehicles, we recommend the following brake bleed procedure. It is important to bleed the brakes with the caliper rotated upward to mimic the factory position — this positions the bleed screw in the orientation in which it was designed to allow air to escape from the caliper.

We will first gravity bleed the system, then pedal bleed the system with the vehicle off, then bleed with the vehicle on.

Bleed order: Furthest from master cylinder to closest — Rear Passenger → Rear Driver → Front Passenger → Front Driver.

Caliper positioning: Position calipers as shown below. 74Weld produces and sells a brake bleed positioning tool, or use brake rotors to position the calipers.

Without the tool — Front: Flip rotor inside out, place caliper on rotor, rotate upward to factory position.

Without the tool — Rear: Flip supplied rear rotor inside out, clamp factory rotor to supplied rotor, place caliper on rotor, rotate upward to factory position.

1. Make sure the battery is disconnected.
2. Remove brake line clamps from soft lines.
3. Prior to bleeding, top off the brake fluid reservoir. Watch and top off periodically. DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY.
4. Gravity bleed: Open the brake fluid reservoir lid and leave it open. Crack the bleed screw open and let fluid and air bubbles flow out. Tap the bleed screw and caliper with a wrench to release stubborn bubbles. Once no air bubbles are observed, close the bleed screw.
5. Check the brake fluid reservoir again and top off.
6. Pedal bleed (vehicle off): Close the brake fluid reservoir lid. Have someone pump the pedal several times to build pressure and then hold it down. Open and close the bleed screw, watching for air bubbles. Repeat until no bubbles are observed. Bleed calipers one by one, farthest to closest to master cylinder.
7. Check the reservoir again and top off.
8. Reconnect the battery, turn on the vehicle, and repeat the pedal bleed procedure.
9. Once bleeding is complete, install rotors in their proper orientations, reinstall the front caliper to the caliper bracket, and reinstall the rear caliper bracket onto the portal box.

First Oil Fill & Break-In

1. Remove the fill plug from the top of each portal box.
2. Add 300 ml (10 oz.) to each portal. Your kit includes two quarts of Maxima synthetic racing oil. For the first fill, we recommend using a budget brand 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil — this fluid will be drained and discarded after a short break-in period.
3. Reinstall the fill plug on each portal box.
4. Install wheels and tires. Torque lug nuts to 120 ft-lbs.
5. Drive 200–300 miles, then perform the first oil change using the provided Maxima synthetic oil. See Oil Change Procedure.

During the first oil change, inspect your portals and suspension:

• Check torque seal (blue marking on fasteners) on portal box fasteners assembled by 74Weld. Re-torque as required.
• Check torque and/or paint marks on all portal and suspension fasteners involved in installation. Re-torque as required.
• Loctite exception: Do not re-torque fasteners where Loctite has been applied.
• Check brake lines, breather hoses, and ABS cables for chafing and abrasion. Adjust routing as required.
• Visually inspect all suspension and portal components for signs of contact or impact. Adjust suspension as required.
• Visually inspect portals and undercarriage for signs of oil spray.
• Check rear differential oil level. Top off as required.

Regular Maintenance — Oil Change

1. Make sure the vehicle is parked, on its own weight, and on level ground.
2. Remove the fill plug and drain plug. Allow oil to completely drain from the box.
3. Reinstall the drain plug.
4. Pour 300 ml (10 oz.) of 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil (Maxima Pro Gear recommended) into the box through the oil fill plug.
5. Reinstall the oil fill plug.

During each oil change, inspect your portals and suspension:

• Check torque seal (blue marking) on portal box fasteners. Re-torque as required.
• Check torque on all portal and suspension fasteners. Re-torque as required.
• Check brake lines, breather hoses, and ABS cables for chafing and abrasion. Adjust routing as required.
• Visually inspect all suspension and portal components for signs of contact or impact.
• Visually inspect portals and undercarriage for signs of oil spray.
• Check rear differential oil level.

Troubleshooting

Check Engine Light

Improper installation of components and damage during installation activities can trigger codes and/or cause your vehicle's check engine light to turn on. Two systems can be affected:

• Anti-lock braking system (ABS) — most common
• General brake functionality due to bleeding during installation

Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS)

If you receive an ABS code, we recommend the following:

1. Using a scan tool, determine what code has been triggered.
2. For general (non-corner-specific) codes, also gear ratio codes:
   • If a tuner is available for your vehicle that can adjust tire size and gear ratio values, purchase one and program accordingly. To determine the gear ratio to enter, multiply your ring and pinion ratio by 1.22. Example: 4.10 × 1.22 = 5.00
   • For Jeep, we recommend the Z-Automotive Tazer; for Ford, the Ford Performance ProCal. We are not aware of a tuner for Toyota, however, we have not seen a case where a tuner was necessary.
   • Disconnect your vehicle's negative battery terminal, wait 15 minutes, and reconnect. If the code/CEL has disappeared, go for a short drive that includes left and right turns and reaches 65 mph.
3. If a specific corner has been flagged:
   • Check that the wheel speed sensor connector is fully engaged. Disconnect, clean terminals, and reconnect as required.
   • Check the wheel speed sensor wire for damage including chafing, crimping, and crushing. Use a multimeter to ensure there is not a short.
   • Clean the magnetic side of the wheel speed sensor system. Lift the corner, support the axle with a jack stand, and pull the wheel speed sensor from the portal.
   • If the portal uses a magnetic encoder (Toyota F/R, Ford F): insert a Q-tip through the wheel speed sensor hole onto the encoder and rotate the wheel to clean the encoder face of metal debris. To more thoroughly clean, remove the portal box from the backer/knuckle/upright.

Additional ABS steps if needed:

• Replace the wheel speed sensor as required.
• Inspect the tone ring or magnetic encoder for damage by removing the portal box from the backer/knuckle/upright:
  1. Remove the brake caliper from the portal box.
  2. Remove the wheel speed sensor from the portal box.
  3. Remove the vent hose from the portal box.
  4. Remove any additional cable management from the portal box.
  5. Remove the 10 screws holding the case halves together.
  6. Remove the portal box assembly from the backer/knuckle/upright. If stubborn, tap with a rubber mallet, use a rotor as a slide hammer, or use the three set screws as jackscrews to wedge the case halves apart.
• Tone rings: Inspect for missing teeth. Ensure the tone ring is pressed onto the lower gear and is not free to spin or move axially. If damage is observed, contact 74Weld for replacement.
• Magnetic encoder: Inspect for damage. The encoder face should be flat with no dents, divots, or waves, and flush with the spindle nut or lower gear. If damage is observed, contact 74Weld for replacement.

General Brake Functionality

During portal installation, brake lines are removed and the brake system must be bled. Improper bleeding can result in soft pedal feel and, in newer vehicles, can cause check engine lights and codes. If you experience either:

• Re-bleed brakes per the procedure outlined in this manual. Ensure calipers are in the positions shown — improper caliper position can result in trapped air bubbles.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir and ensure the master cylinder has not run dry. If the brake fluid reservoir has been depleted, take your vehicle to a dealership for a full pressurized bleed per the manufacturer's service manual.

Oil Leaks

Damaged seals and other components can lead to oil leaks. It is important to address leaks to ensure the portal retains oil and keeps contaminants out of the gearbox. Oil leaks can also be a warning sign of a more serious problem.

Front Upper Gear Seal Leak

• Check vent lines and catch cans to ensure they are not kinked and allow air to flow freely. Obstructed airflow can cause pressure build-up and blow out this seal. In many cases, once the obstruction is removed the seal will resume its intended function.
• If the seal has been damaged, it will need to be replaced. Many kits include a V-ring seal as a second layer of protection — we recommend replacing these seals together. Install the new seal in the same orientation as the one you remove.
• To access the seal on IFS vehicles: remove the tie rod and upper control arm to swing the portal out enough to remove the stub shaft.
• The other leak path is through the upper gear splines, past the stub shaft O-ring. Check that the stub shaft nut (behind the portal window) is tight. Replace O-ring on stub shaft as required.

General O-Ring Leaks

The window, hubcap, and wheel speed sensor interfaces are all sealed with O-rings. If one of these interfaces leaks:

• Face seal O-ring grooves (Hubcap, Window, Box WSS feature): Clean the O-ring groove and mating part. Both should be free of nicks, dings, and burrs. Grease and install a new O-ring. Reassemble and torque in a star pattern.
• Radial O-ring grooves (Wheel Speed Sensor): Same steps as above. If necessary, use sandpaper to smooth the entry to the wheel speed sensor bore to ensure the O-ring is not cut on install.

Breather and Plug Leaks

Breather fitting:

• Ensure the breather hose is secured to the banjo fitting with a hose clamp.
• Ensure crush washers are present on either side of the banjo fitting.
• Ensure the banjo bolt is torqued and not loose. Crush washers are single-use — replace as required.
• Over-torquing the banjo bolt can cause the bolt to twist. Twisted bolts should be replaced. Do not over-torque.

Drain and fill plugs:

• Ensure the drain or fill plug is fully seated.
• Ensure the O-ring is present on the plug and not damaged. Replace plugs as required.
• The drain plug has a magnet; the fill plug does not. DO NOT put a plug with a magnet in the fill position.

Leak at Rear Axle Housing Flange

1. Check torque on the portal-to-axle housing nuts.
2. If fasteners were loose, determine if the nut is loose on the stud or the stud is loose in the backer:
   • Nuts loose on studs: Replace nylocs and re-torque.
   • Studs loose in backer: Remove the portal from the axle housing. Remove the loose studs. Clean threads on studs and backer holes. Apply red Loctite 263 to threads on studs and in backer holes. Reinstall the stud into the backer and allow 24 hours for Loctite to cure. Reinstall portal to axle housing per the instructions in this manual.
3. Replace O-ring between backer and axle housing as required: Remove portal from axle housing, grease and install a new O-ring, reinstall portal.

Leak Between Unit Bearing and Box

For this leak to occur, oil must pass through a radial seal and two O-rings. It can be caused by damage to all three seals during installation, or loosening of the unit bearing bolts. The following procedure is recommended to ensure longevity of your unit bearing hub:

1. Remove the brake caliper, wheel speed sensor, vent hose, and any additional cable management from the portal box.
2. Remove the 10 screws holding the case halves together.
3. Remove the portal box assembly from the backer/knuckle/upright.
4. Inside the lower gear, there is a snap ring retaining the lower stub shaft. Remove this snap ring and pull the lower gear out of the box.
5. Remove the four unit bearing bolts and pull the unit bearing off of the box.
6. Clean the internals of the portal box.
7. Replace the radial shaft seal and two O-rings. Grease the seal lip and O-rings.
8. Reassemble the portal in reverse order of disassembly. Clean hardware and threaded holes. Follow torque specs and Loctite requirements in this manual.

Leak Behind Unit Bearing Wheel Flange

For this leak to occur, oil must pass through a radial seal in the portal box and both the inner and outer seal of the unit bearing hub. The unit bearing hub is non-serviceable and will require replacement along with the seal in the portal box.

1. Remove the brake caliper, wheel speed sensor, vent hose, and any additional cable management from the portal box.
2. Remove the 10 screws holding the case halves together.
3. Remove the portal box assembly from the backer/knuckle/upright.
4. Inside the lower gear, there is a snap ring retaining the lower stub shaft. Remove this snap ring and pull the lower gear out of the box.
5. Remove the four unit bearing bolts and pull the unit bearing off of the box.
6. Clean the internals of the portal box.
7. Replace the radial shaft seal. Grease the seal lip.
8. Remove the hubcap and lower stub shaft from the old unit bearing and transfer to the new unit bearing.
9. Grease and install new O-rings onto the new unit bearing.
10. Reassemble in reverse order. Clean hardware and threaded holes. Follow torque specs and Loctite requirements in this manual.

Replacement Parts

Refer to the bills of materials earlier in this manual for part numbers supplied in kits. The table below and diagram detail part numbers used in portal assemblies.

VERSION 3.0 — DESIGN · PROTOTYPE · PRODUCTION
74Weld Support: 1-619-286-6656